We are all aware that skincare is a competitive industry where formulation transparency is no longer a question, as it is expected. With consumers becoming more ingredient-savvy and concerned about what skincare ingredients to avoid, private label skincare brands must be aware of using potentially harmful or controversial ingredients in any custom formulations.
You must remember that choosing the wrong ingredient can not only cause an unintentional skin reaction, but it can also harm the integrity of a brand. That being said, when developing anything from cleansers, serums, and moisturizers to exfoliants, the emphasis placed on what to use is only matched by how important it is to know what to avoid.
This article highlights the most frequently avoided ingredients when developing private label skincare with references to dermatological studies, regulations, and clean beauty. Let’s begin!
10 Skincare Ingredients to Avoid in Custom Formulations
When making selections that lead to custom formulations, here are the most important ingredients to avoid in skincare:
1. Parabens
Parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben) have been a staple in the cosmetic industry for decades as a form of preservative. They effectively prevent microbial growth to extend shelf life.
However, recent studies were able to establish evidence that parabens may impact hormone function by mimicking estrogen within the human body. There has yet to be a conclusive link to breast cancer but the fear created around their potential risk has prompted global consumer fear and regulatory restrictions.
Therefore, private label brands committing to “clean” formulations should be looking for alternative preservatives (i.e., phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate, or potassium sorbate).
2. Sulfates
Commonly found in most cleansers, shampoos, and face washes, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) are surfactants known for their foaming ability. While they provide cleansing power and foaming, sulfates strip away natural oils, disrupt the skin’s moisture barrier, and can be irritating to the skin. They can even worsen the case, especially for dry and sensitive skin types.
Sulfates are becoming increasingly associated with synthetic overload and being harsh by the consumer. When you wish to develop a custom formulation of skincare ingredients to avoid, you may want to consider more gentle ingredients like cocamidopropyl betaine or disodium cocoamphodiacetate, derived from coconut oil.
3. Synthetic Fragrances
Fragrance is ubiquitous in skincare and is also one of the top allergens to consumers, frequently listed as a causation in contact dermatitis. Notably, fragrance as an ingredient on a label may consist of a cocktail of potentially hundreds of chemicals that can include phthalates or neurotoxins.
For custom formulations, there is a certain level of ambiguity about synthetic fragrances, so the ability to transparently list this ingredient and claim ‘allergen-free’ may be a challenge. You ought to use respect and responsibility when developing custom formulations that use essential oils (provided they are not allergenic) or certified natural aromatic extracts, and always label the ingredients.
4. Phthalates
Phthalates, like diethyl phthalate (DEP), are commonly used in products as solvents or fragrance stabilizers. However, their use poses serious concerns in terms of endocrine disruption, developmental toxicity, and reproductive toxicity.
Phthalates are frequently not explicitly disclosed on product labels (usually listed as a “fragrance” ingredient), but they can compromise a brand’s clean or natural positioning. Phthalate-free claims are now a common point of differentiation in the clean beauty industry. It is also advisable to always require suppliers to provide proof of phthalate-free raw materials.
5. Formaldehyde and Formaldehyde-Releasing Agents
Formaldehyde is not frequently used as a raw material and is considered a standard, though its impact may reasonably seem limited when using formaldehyde-releasing preservatives. These include DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, and quaternium-15, as they can produce small amounts of formaldehyde over time and inhibit microbial growth.
Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen and a respiratory irritant, and its inclusion can lead to allergic reactions, especially in individuals with eczema or sensitive skin.
As a consequence of its potential toxicity, the use of formaldehyde and formaldehyde-releasing agents is banned or restricted in many countries. It should be avoided in new formulations of skincare ingredients, particularly in clean, safe, or natural contexts.
6. Mineral Oil and Petroleum-Derived Ingredients
Mineral oil, petroleum, and paraffin are petroleum-based occlusives that are effective at providing a barrier to retain moisture in the skin, but do not provide any nourishment, and are infamous for clogging pores as well as being greasy and heavy.
Even more concerning, unrefined petroleum-based products may contain carcinogens like PAH’s (polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons). If you are looking for moisturizing alternatives, try using non-comedogenic plant-derived oils, like jojoba oil, squalane, or rosehip oil.
7. Alcohol (Drying Types)
Although not all alcohols are damaging to the skin, denatured alcohol, ethanol, and isopropyl alcohol can be excessively drying and or disruptive to the skin barrier, especially as a leave-on product. These products may make the skin feel “tight” as it is drying, and people can mistake that feeling for effectiveness. However, over time, these can be disruptive to the skin barrier and can create irritation and/or flakiness.
Some safe alternatives include fatty alcohols (i.e., cetyl, stearyl, or cetearyl alcohol), which have no negative side effects on the skin; they help with emulsification as well as softening the skin.
8. Oxybenzone and Chemical Sunscreens
Sunscreen formulations containing oxybenzone and octinoxate have been placed increasingly under a microscope, since both are potential hormone disruptors and can trigger photoallergic responses. They are both also known environmental contaminants causing coral reef bleaching and marine toxicity.
For brands looking to promote environmentally friendly products with skincare ingredients to avoid, non-nano zinc oxide and titanium dioxide provide broad-spectrum protection without these pitfalls.
9. Artificial Colors (FD&C Dyes)
Artificial colors used to create visually exciting skincare products are often derived from coal tar or petroleum sources. These FD&C dyes, such as Red 40, Yellow 5, and Blue 1, have been linked to skin irritation and toxicity.
More consumers are looking for formulations designed specifically without synthetic colorants, especially in the consumer-sensitive or anti-aging space. Consider using natural pigments (mica, iron oxides, or colorants from fruit or plants), when color is necessary.
10. Triclosan
Triclosan, once widely embraced in antibacterial cleansers and skincare, has all but disappeared from the market. Evidence is mounting around its negative thyroid effects and past concerns about its contribution to antibiotic resistance problems.
Consumer confidence shifts away from harsh active ingredients and embraces gentler, effective ingredients. Antimicrobial botanicals like tea tree oil, eucalyptus, or witch hazel offer a safer alternative when used at the proper concentration.
Why Are These Ingredients Still Found in the Market?
Despite many of the skincare ingredients to avoid listed above, they are still present in commercially available skincare products because of low cost to manufacture, long shelf life, and historical use. Formulation trends are quickly headed toward safer, cleaner, and evidence-based alternatives. However, private label brands must shift with the trends, weighing product performance & efficacy with transparency & safety.
Using harmful or outdated ingredients can impact customer loyalty and make it harder to meet compliance obligations in international markets, especially the EU, Canada, and Australia.
Conclusion
Clean, safe, and effective skincare begins with selecting the right ingredients. For private label skincare brands, removing the wrong ingredients from custom formulations is essential in building trust and credibility as well as maintaining safety and efficacy.
In a marketplace of educated consumers, it is imperative not to use harsh or toxic chemicals. Although this is not an option for the long haul, if there is any real desire for growth and a solidified brand reputation.
We create custom formulations that embody safety, efficacy, and brand alignment. Reach out to us to begin establishing a private label skincare line that conscious consumers can rely on and love.